What are the alternatives to leather?

A common question we are asked at SBD is what alternatives are there to leather?  As a product, leather is desired for its organic look, smell and hand feel, its durability and aging qualities. But from paddock to product, the ethical and environmental impacts of producing such desirable leather have been under continued scrutiny, from animal husbandry practices to the pollution caused by the use of chromium and other heavy metals in the tanning process. Just like its fashion industry counterparts, the more sustainable conscientious consumer is demanding leather products that are more eco-friendly or to be replaced altogether.  

In response to consumer demand, it has been reported that leading brands in the luxury leather market have been actively investigating other sustainable materials. While there are some exciting developments in this space, these innovations are still relatively recent and not accessible to the commercial market as of yet. In the meantime, the alternative options currently available have had varying success and don’t quite rival the desired qualities of chrome tanned leathers. SBD has worked with clients pursuing alternative materials and we share our insights below.

Recycled Leather

RecycLeather™ is a green tech company that recycles natural leather fibres from used traceable leather waste obtained from industrial glove off-cuts. Through a process of smart recycling, 60% of the source material is animal leather, with the other 40% comprising of a mixture of vegetable and synthetic products. All RecycLeather™ products are subject to rigorous SGS certification (a Switzerland-based independent inspection agency) and contain no harmful substances. The result is a durable product, that retains traditional appearance and feel of chrome tanned animal leather.

SBD insight: We have clients who are successfully selling products made of RecycLeather. In our experience with this product, it is better suited to more structured bag and wallet designs

Cactus Leather

Desserto® is a plant based vegan leather made from cactus. Showcased in Milan in 2019, the aim of Mexican creators Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez was to offer a cruelty free, sustainable alternative, without any toxic chemicals. Desserto® is also certified by SGS, partially biodegradable and offers technical specifications required for fashion and leather goods.

SBD insight: Similar to other leather alternatives currently available made from apple, pineapple or mushroom, cactus leather looks and feels ‘plastic’ like PU leather and is not as aesthetically pleasing as tanned animal leather. The backing is also made from a polyester cotton blend fabric that does not meet the same benchmarks for sustainable products.

Econyl Recycled Nylon

Econyl Recycled Nylon is a perfect example of a material that is circular. Made from nylon waste such as fishing nets, fabric scraps and carpet flooring, the rescued nylon is transformed into ECONYL® regenerated nylon. A radical regeneration and purification process transforms nylon waste back to its original form, meaning it can perform exactly the same as virgin nylon. In fashion, you can find ECONYL® in handbags, apparel, hosiery and lingerie as well as high-performance sportswear and swimwear.

SBD insight: We are working with clients at the moment who are sampling bags made from Econyl and we are excited to see the outcome!   

Veg Tan Leather

Vegetable-tanned leather is the traditional way of tanning leather, in which tannins used in the tanning process are derived from plants like bark and are applied over several months to tan the hide. This yields a stiffer but longer-lasting leather that is biodegradable and achieves a natural feel and earthy smell. It is a time consuming process however, requiring highly skilled craftsman and utilises a significant amount of water.

SBD insight: As this is tanned animal leather, vegetable-tanned leather achieves the desired appearance and hand feel for leather products and has the same longevity. The tanning process allows for rich layers of colour and works particularly well in natural hues.

 Eco (Chrome Free) Leather

Eco leather is made in a process called wet white tanning which is based on aluminium, silica and tetrakis (hydroxymethyl) phosphonium sulphate (THPS), making it free of harmful chemicals like chromium, heavy metals, formaldehyde, short-chain chlorinated paraffin, volatile organic compounds and alkyl phenol ethoxylates. The leather is tested regularly by SGS to ensure it is toxin-free and unlike chromium-tanned leather, waste scraps can be recycled and used in fertilizer.

SBD insight: SBD are yet to work with this type of leather and welcome any feedback from other’s experiences.

Eco-Certified Chrome Tanned Leather

It is important to note that there have been significant improvements in the manufacture of chrome tanned animal leather which has shown it can be produced more sustainably. Organisations such as the Leather Working Group has identified environmental best practices in the industry and provided guidelines for continual improvement. They offer a suite of auditing tools to assess the environmental performance of leather manufacturing facilities and certify those that meet the standards. Sedex is also one of the world’s leading ethical trade membership organisations, working with businesses to improve working conditions in global supply chains. Members are regularly audited to their standards which are internationally renowned and enables brands to find producers and manufacturers that are achieving more ethical and sustainable outcomes.

SBD insight: SBD currently work with suppliers that are certified by Leather Working Group and Sedex so you can be assured leather products are sourced ethically, manufacturing is conducted ethically and products are of a high quality.

Want to learn more about alternatives to tanned animal leather? Contact us to see how we can help.